Transit

We arrived in KL over 12 hours ago, but it still feels like we're in transit.

Entering Malaysia at KLIA was the easiest airport experience either of us has ever had. Immigration - not even an arrival card to fill in (apparently Malaysia doesn't collect overseas visitor statistics). Baggage claim - intuitive and right next to the exit. Customs - apparently on a tea break when we came through. Airport train - an express, easy to find, comfortable and easy ticketing.

Gregory keeps saying the world has changed since he last travelled in 2003. I'm not sure what he's referring to, exactly, but I suppose some security requirements are new (they didn't deprive you of your water bottle at security in 2003), and some have disappeared (they no longer care about what's in your checked baggage). For me the travel is very familiar, especially transiting through Singapore. Changi airport is as lovely as ever, although I couldn't get the WiFi to work for me this time. Instead I showered and changed into hot-weather clothes.

After arriving at KL Sentral station on the airport train we had to switch to the local network, LRT. It wasn't signposted so we followed the crowds. Riding the LRT is in many ways like riding the Tube - ticket vending machines, ticket-operated gates, color coded lines, lists of stops so you can work out which way you're going, standing room only, women in headscarves. The main difference is the single-use ticket - it's a round plastic token with an RFID inside, not a card, and seems to be the main form of ticket used by the locals. Reusable cards can't be purchased or topped up by machine, but require queuing at two different counters.

The heat started on the airport train (the air conditioning was broken) and intensified as we ascended from the LRT station toward street level inside a building called Avenue K. Nothing quite prepares you for that first step outside into tropical air. It's like stepping into a steamy bathroom. The sky was grey was smog, which smelled vaguely sulferous. I was glad of my light silk dress in the two minutes we were outside before reaching the hotel. (And finally saw some non-Muslim women in short dresses, making me feel less obvious for my outfit.)

At the hotel we made all sorts of plans to go for a walk in the park at KLCC, but then a tropical thunderstorm started, so we fell asleep... till midnight.

In the morning our transit will finally end and we'll get to see how the city looks post-storm. Till then we have a view from our room of one of the Petronas towers (and Avenue K) to satisfy our need for sightseeing.